Key Points
- Ling Ling’s, a roaming contemporary Cantonese-inspired concept led by chef Jenny Phung and partner James ‘Shep’ Shepherd, has established a year-long residency at Godet wine pub in Islington, north-east London.
- Previous successful residencies include The Gun in Hackney (now closed), The Bluecoats in Tottenham, and Bambi in London Fields, favouring long-term pop-ups over a permanent restaurant amid challenging industry conditions.
- Godet is described as a hip yet approachable ‘wine pub’ blending Provençal country cottage aesthetics with a traditional British boozer vibe, featuring an eccentric depressive tangerine paint, wooden tables, cafe curtains, church pews, fresh flower jugs, candles, and vintage dub reggae from a vinyl DJ.
- Standout dishes include crunchy fried pork and water chestnut wontons with juicy interiors and perfectly puckered tops; crisp radish cakes slathered in soy pomegranate dressing; flirty mapo radishes and cucumber platter; charred hispi cabbage with pickles and hoisin; glass-skin chicken in flavourful broth with shimeji mushrooms and tong ho greens; and impeccably cooked octopus with crispy tentacles in creamy coconut sambal and lime leaf oil.
- Chef Jenny Phung excels in texture mastery, balancing crunch, softness, and sloppiness without fussiness, delivering full-throttle flavours and seductive techniques that position Ling Ling’s as one of London’s best current dining spots.
Inverted Pyramid Structure
Ling Ling’s, the nomadic Cantonese-inspired pop-up by chef Jenny Phung and James ‘Shep’ Shepherd, has launched a year-long residency at Godet, a charming Islington wine pub, bringing thrilling Chinese cookery to north-east London diners. As reported in the original review from Time Out London, this latest stint follows successful runs at The Gun in Hackney (RIP), The Bluecoats in Tottenham, and Bambi in London Fields, opting for flexible residencies in a tough hospitality climate. Godet’s romantic 19th-century space, once the Norfork Arms, sets a discreet backdrop for Phung’s bold flavours, with early highlights like crispy pork wontons and radish cakes already winning acclaim.
What is Ling Ling’s Background?
Ling Ling’s operates as a roaming, contemporary Cantonese-inspired concept crafted by chef Jenny Phung and her partner James ‘Shep’ Shepherd. The duo has spent the past few years bobbing happily around north-east London, favouring long-term residencies over committing to their own bricks-and-mortar restaurant. In the provided Time Out London review, the concept is praised for its adaptability, with the journalists noting,
“Favouring long-term residencies over a restaurant of their own (and in this climate, who can blame them?)”.
Previous venues underscore their track record of success. They hosted stints at The Gun in Hackney, which has since closed; The Bluecoats in Tottenham; and Bambi in London Fields. The latest move to Godet marks a year-long set-up, positioning it as their most extended collaboration yet. This nomadic tour de kitchen reflects strategic resilience in London’s competitive dining scene.
Where is Godet and What Makes It Special?
Godet, the host venue in Islington, blends a Provençal country cottage charm with the grit of a “grubby old scroat boozer,” creating a quietly lovely atmosphere. Painted in an eccentric shade of depressive tangerine, it features French farmyard-friendly wooden tables, cutesy cafe curtains, occasional church pews, jugs full of fresh flowers, and candles on every table. Vintage dub reggae drifts discreetly throughout the 19th-century pub, once known as the Norfork Arms, courtesy of a vinyl-only real-life human DJ, making the romance palpable.
Time Out London’s review emphasises Godet’s hip but mercifully not too hip vibe, linked directly via their venue page: https://www.timeout.com/london/bars-and-pubs/godet. This discreet backdrop contrasts sharply with Ling Ling’s aggressive charm offensive of full-throttle flavours and seductive kitchen technique. Despite the pub’s unpretentious setting, it elevates the dining experience without overwhelming it.
What are the Standout Dishes at Ling Ling’s?
The menu kicks off with Ling Ling’s charm offensive through exceedingly crunchy fried pork and water chestnut wontons. Their fresh and juicy insides complement bubbly golden wrappers, looking like the platonic ideal of a crispy wonton with perfectly puckered tops. Radish cakes follow as equally satisfying, proving chef Jenny Phung a titan of texture; the savoury stack retains crispness despite a slathering of soy pomegranate dressing.
A platter of flirty mapo radishes and cucumber continues the crunchy onslaught, paving the way for delightfully sloppy charred hispi cabbage with pickles and hoisin. The review questions London’s saturation of hispi cabbage dishes but concedes Ling Ling’s version changes minds, slathered in an ultra umami, near-nutty sauce that serves as a wet foil to prior crunch. Glass-skin chicken introduces variety with soft, bouncy meat in a thin but extra-flavourful broth, joined by tender shimeji mushrooms and tong ho greens in an addictive soupy melee.
How is the Octopus Prepared?
Octopus stands out as impeccably cooked, with no unasked-for chewiness and crispy tentacles served alongside a blinding creamy, semi-sweet coconut sambal drizzled with lime leaf oil. This dish exemplifies Phung’s skill in balancing tenderness and crispness.
Who is Chef Jenny Phung and What Sets Her Apart?
Cookery like this demands real skill, yet none of Ling Ling’s dishes feel fussy or fiddly. Behind-the-scenes complexity yields lowkey excellence, with Phung mastering texture contrasts—crunchy wontons against sloppy cabbage, bouncy chicken against creamy octopus. Time Out London’s unnamed reviewer hails her as a “titan of texture,” noting how radish cakes hold crispness under dressing and hispi cabbage gains a new lease of life beyond small-plates monotony.
Phung’s Cantonese-inspired approach delivers seductive technique without pretension. The overall effect positions Ling Ling’s as one of the best places to eat in London right now, per the review’s verdict:
“Lowkey Ling Ling’s just so happens to be one of the best places to eat in London right now. Just don’t all rush at once.”
Why Choose a Nomadic Model Now?
In today’s hospitality climate, the decision to avoid a fixed restaurant makes sense, as highlighted in the Time Out piece. Economic pressures favour pop-ups like Godet’s year-long residency, allowing flexibility while building buzz across venues. This strategy has proven effective through prior successes, sustaining momentum without overheads.
How Does Godet Enhance the Experience?
Godet’s ambiance amplifies Ling Ling’s appeal. The depressive tangerine walls, farmyard tables, and dub reggae create intimacy, letting food shine. Candles and flowers add romance, turning a simple pub into a destination. The review repeats Godet’s description for emphasis, underscoring its role:
“A kind of Provençal country cottage meets a grubby old scroat boozer, Godet is quietly lovely”.
What’s the Verdict on Ling Ling’s at Godet?
Ling Ling’s swift integration at Godet promises sustained excitement. Full-throttle flavours seduce amid a friendly setting, with Phung’s textural prowess elevating every plate. Diners should book ahead, as word spreads of this thrilling Chinese cookery gem.
